Testing Miranda lenses on a m4/3 Olympus (part 1)

Last Saturday, which was an extremely warm and sunny day here in Tampere, I set about cycling around the town with my off-road bicycle, with Olympus PEN E-PL3 body, Miranda-m4/3 adapter and a selection of Miranda lenses in the camera backpack, with the intention of taking test shots. Here are some examples of the resulting photos; the photos are unmodified and in full size, so the loading of the pictures may be slow.

Auto Miranda 28mm f/2.8 lens, serial number 1200345. Exposure: f/16 1/250s 200ISO Aperture-priority mode.

P8033337

Auto Miranda 50mm f/1.8 (Sensorex style) lens, serial number 1924791. Exposure: f/16 1/500s 200ISO Aperture-priority mode.

P8033338

Auto Miranda 135mm f/3.5 lens, serial number 2635458. Exposure: 1/500s 200ISO Manual mode. (These two ducks, and three more, were constantly moving. I took several pictures of them in quick succession and didn’t have time to record the aperture used.)

P8033343

Same 135mm lens, exposure: f/8 1/1000s 200ISO Aperture-priority mode.

P8033350
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Olympus PEN EE-2

Found this little miniature marvel at the collector’s sale at Killinkoski Camera Museum (highly recommended, if you ever visit Virrat, Finland).

Not the modern digital variety, but the original point-and-shoot PEN: a 1968 or so Olympus PEN EE-2 28mm f/3.5 half-frame camera. Seems to be working, down to the weird selenium exposure meter (the transparent ring around the lens).

Olympus PEN EE-2
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Miranda Sensorex C

Recently I had the pleasure to add a new camera to my Miranda collection: a very tidy and fully working Miranda Sensorex C (serial number 933772, circa 1970 model).

For the sake of creating an impressive picture I fitted it with a 90-230mm f/4.5 Soligor T4-mount zoom lens, and an original Miranda accessory rubber eye cup. The standard factory-issue 50mm f/1.8 lens is beside the Sensorex.

Miranda Sensorex C
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Miranda viewfinders

One of the most distinctive features of the Miranda SLR cameras was the interchangeable viewfinder system. Some other camera companies have also used a similar system on some of their models (notably Nikon F, Canon F-1 and some Topcon models, and of course Ihagee Exakta), but Miranda was the first Japanese make, and the only make to use this feature across their whole SLR range, from the first Miranda/Orion T in 1955 to the last 1976 Sensorex EE-2. Also, Miranda had another first: it was the first Japanese production SLR to have a pentaprism viewfinder at all.

I’ll introduce here the different Miranda viewfinder versions I have. Let’s start with the standard pentaprism viewfinder which was factory fitted to almost every model.

Standard prism viewfinder
Standard prism viewfinder
Standard prism viewfinder

The optional VF1 waist-level finder (this is the one my father used on his Miranda Fv).

Waist-level finder VF1
Waist-level finder VF1
Waist-level finder VF1

The optional critical focuser VF3. 5x magnification when opened, 15x when folded down.

Critical focuser VF3
Critical focuser VF3
Critical focuser VF3

The pentaprism with a built-in Through-The-Lens (TTL, hence the “T”) CdS exposure meter. Originally used in the GT and FvT models, but can be retrofitted to any model, except the Automex/Sensorex range.

TTL metering prism
TTL metering prism
TTL metering prism

The standard pentaprism viewfinder of a Sensorex C. The Automex/Sensorex range had their own range of viewfinders; the mounting is superficially similar, but the dimensions differ.

Sensorex viewfinder
Sensorex viewfinder
Sensorex viewfinder

Also, there exists some Miranda viewfinder models I don’t currently have: there are for example an another critical focuser model VF4, and an earlier version of the metering prism used in the FM model, which isn’t a TTL but has a metering eye on the upper front corner of the prism.

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Loose Miranda lens caps

I’d like to share here a tip I got from a fellow mirandacollectors group member.

With age and use, the metal push-on lens caps on Miranda and some Soligor lenses wear out and loosen to the extent that they drop off by itself. Here’s one cure for the problem:

  • Carefully prise out the plastic insert from the cap.
  • Put one layer of electrical tape or similar (I used heavy black duct tape) to the outer side of the plastic, and trim to width.
  • Slip the insert back to lens cap.
  • Check the lens cap fit to the lens: It should go on and stay on like a new cap.
Lens cap repair
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